nueva conversion franky para motores honda f22 block & h22 head

TOMADO DE:
[Solo los usuarios registrados pueden ver los vínculos. ]

DYNO LINKS:
[Solo los usuarios registrados pueden ver los vínculos. ]
[Solo los usuarios registrados pueden ver los vínculos. ] for the impatient

This thread describes the creation of the G23 Frankenstein engine, which is (mainly) a F23 block with a H23 or F22B DOHC cylinder head. As you will see, this naturally asipirated engine also uses parts from a multitude of other Honda models of varying generations. This is a true Frankenstien engine that uses the pieces of various dead engines to create a new monster, the G23. This thread is a spinoff of Prelittlelude's F22/H22 VTEC Turbo hybrid thread found here:

[Solo los usuarios registrados pueden ver los vínculos. ]

The first question some of you may be asking is "Why?" There are few main reasons to do something like this:
1) If you have an H23 with a spun bearing and a garage full of miscallaneous Honda parts. What else are you going to do with all this stuff?
2) NA Torque Monster! Sure the H22 has great top end, but low end torque is great fun around town.
3) Cheap fun! Once you take VTEC out of the equation everything gets pretty cheap. The total price of this engine was originally about $400 (now it has cams, springs, retainers and gears so it has those costs now too).
4) To have a unique answer to the question, "So, what's under the hood?"

Everyone knows that the F22/H23 crank is Honda's stroked version of the H22 crank. If 95mm is good, why not 97mm? The F23 uses a 97mm crank, but only an 86mm bore. There is not much information available on what parts are interchangeable between F23 and other engines, but they are pretty cheap. I bought a full 2001 Accord F23 SOHC Longblock with 4000 miles CarFaxed from some place in Ohio for $325 shipped on Ebay. Specs on it are 86mm (iron sleeved) Bore X 97mm Stroke, fairly low compression, at least it burns regular gas no problem. Stock redline is about 6200 rpm.

Best way to see what will fit is to tear it down and start measuring. So I tore off the head, total of ~20 bolts and 2 hoses. No messing with cam caps or anything. Very easy.


97mm crank with 4000 miles. This crank has 55mm mains and won't fit in H23 or pre '98 H22 blocks.


F23 rod, piston, pin and bolt. These rods are pretty unique in the Honda world. The little end is a standard 22mm floating pin, but the big end is both smaller and narrower than expected: 45mm journal, .780" thick, SImilar to some K-series rods but different length.



see note at bottom
So it looks like we are going to use the F23 block, but this is going to be an NA engine, so more compression would be nice. What if we bore it back to 87mm and use some H22A4 pistons? That bumps our displacement to 2307cc and the compression too; both of which should help our quest for cheap torque. So I bored it out to 87mm and put in some 1998 Prelude floating wristpin pistons (10:1 compression in H22A4).
see note at bottom


Only thing is that the new piston's compression heights are about .042" taller than the old pistons that were .008" in the hole. So the new pistons now protrude about .034" out of the hole:


So these new pistons with the extra stroke (+6.3mm) and smaller H23A1 combustion chamber (-3.8cc's) I get about 12.5 compression IF it all fits inside the head. But it does not fit so Flyrod and I went to the machine shop and recessed the H23A1 cumbustion chambers about .039" We're going for 40 but the tool was a little dull I guess. So I will probably be running about 12:1 compression now. Which IS streetable at sea level on 91 octane with a bit of tuning. Good thing that I am at about 5500 feet huh? BTW all of New Mexico is above 3300 feet.

Anyway here we are at the shop:



H23 head modified around periphery of Cumbustion chambers (more quench aids in anti detonation )


Checked clearance WITHOUT headgasket. We used solder and the clearance was .012" so add .026" for the Headgasket and you get .038" total piston-to-head clearance.


Good fit.


So now the engine specs are:
97mm stroke X 87mm Bore
2,307cc displacement
12.25:1 compression approx (11.7 with DOHC F22B head)
6700 theoretical max rev limit based on piston speed/acceleration
calculations and OEM H23 cam profile

For assembly some other parts needed to be scrounged. I re-used the F23 head gasket, but sprayed it with Permatex copper gasket spray and put a blob of silicone (Permatex grey) in the one oil drain where the head gasket didn't quite line up. (for more info read the F22/H22 link at the top of this thread)




I used the H23 head bolts, but the F23 bolts looked like they would have worked too; same length and thread pitch. The H23 timing belt components were used with the F23 lower cover and H23 upper covers. The timing side motor mount was a bit of a problem, but the F22A1 mount from a early 90's Accord bolts on nicely:


The coolant pipe on the back side of the engine was another little snag. I was going to cut the F23(third from top) and H23 (second from top) tubes and splice them with a rubber hose, but the F22A1 (on bottom) saves the day again:


More assembly. Needed an intake manifold gasket, but being a cheap bastard Red Baron pizza box fills the bill until I can find/fab an insulating one for the H23 (now installed). I found the top half of a H23 DC header to mate with lower half of the existing DC SS H22 header. With the long block fully assembled, time to install it in the car:

After installing the engine breaking-in the engine was done by driving around town and up and down the mountains with close attention to the AF ratio. Any lean or rich spots were promptly tuned out. With about 500 miles on it, and no signs of trouble, it was abused for about another 100 miles at a local track day on Halloween. Fitting place for a frankenstein... The car pulls great to at least 6000 on stock cams, 7000 with the stage 3 Crowers. The balance shaft belt is not on, so there is some definite buzz starting around 6k.

To give you an idea what a motley combination this is, here is the donor list for just the engine (don't get me started on the car):

1993 H23A1
head (modified combustion chambers), intake, distributor, wiring harness, timing belt components
2001 F23A5
block (bored to 87mm), crank, rods, alternator bracket, head gasket
1998 H22A4
pistons, pins, rings, rear engine mount
1993 H22A1
injectors, crank pulley, alternator, front engine mount, ignition coil, flywheel
1991 F22A1
water coolant pipe to mate with the H23 intake
199? F22?
left engine mount
199? D15?
ecu (modified)
"other"
red baron intake manifold gasket, mild steel H23 DC primaries, stainless H22 DC secondaries,
ebay intake, super tech oil filter, permatex grey silicone and copper gasket spray, etc.

Original OEM build Price breakdown:
F23 longblock......................$325
Bore & Hone........................$65
H23 DC primaries.................$50
F22 coolant pipe...................$15
F22 mount...........................$10
H23 timing belt.....................$18
H23/H22 equipment and ECU..Free
[Solo los usuarios registrados pueden ver los vínculos. ].....Free (not dynoed)
Traded H22 cams for H22A4 pistons

Sold F23 Head/manifolds for $150

This project was a lot of fun, but it took a lot of research and trial and error. Thanks to everyone on Honda-Tech that helped, particularly Flyrod, Prelittlelude and others in the F22/H22 hybrid thread. If this information helps you, or if you have somthing to add, please post here for all to see. If nothing else I hope it was an interesting read for you. The butt-dyno, wallet, and track times all point to success. Dynojet dyno to follow as soon as the local dyno drags get organized (unless anyone wants to donate to the cause for an earlier dyno session?)...

School is out.
Dr. Pirate


*EDIT* This engine was originally an experiment. I re-used spare parts I had on hand to assemble a fun beater engine for my Daily Driver/track whore of a car. I never expected it to do as well as it has for as long as it has. If I was to do it all over again I would NOT use OEM H22 pistons! If you intend to duplicate this build or something similar I strongly suggest looking into better-suited components for better reliability and less 'custom' or jury-rigged work.

*another edit* Rehosted 4-year old pictures becuase we-todd finally quit working.

carlos, "embedea" los videos para poderlos ver aca directamente

copia el codigo de INSERTAR que sale en youtube y lo pegas en los mensajes

Jajajajaa me lo lei todddo muy del putassssss, eso es tener ganas de armas como sea...

Una pregunta que pasa que los cilindros sean mas altos en 0.034 ??

Para motores b16a2 hay cosas que sirvan para dejarlo aspirado?, es que en este páramo son muy sonsos y según algunas personas con las que he hablado no hay mucho por hacerles para mejorarlos a ésta altura sin invertir plata exagerada, obviamente no se pretenden ganancias absurdas de potencia pero si recuperar algo de lo que esos motores hacen al nivel del mar.